Yangon

Yangon

            Myanmar is a country which is situated in South-East Asia. To the south of it, there lie the Bay of Bengal and the Adaman Sea, to the east Thailand, Loas and China, to the north China, to the west India and Bangladesh stand respectively. To be exact, it lies between 9 32' N and 28 31' N, 92 10 E and 101 11' E. It has an area of 261, 228 sq-miles.

            Tropic of Capricon crosses near Tee Tain City, Takaung City, and Khut Khaing City in Myanmar.

            One of the famous cities of Myanmar is Yangon which is previously called "Rangoon". Here, we present the account of Yangon which was the capital of Myanmar. Now, a new capital has become "Naypitaw" which stands in central Myanmar. Because of that Yangon has become the second city and is also called "Commercial City".

            Yangon exists about the crossing point of 96 13' E and 16 45' N.

            Looking back into the history of Yangon, it is said that a place called Yangon was named " Okkalapa" in ancient times, and that name was called in the Phu Era such as the Takaung and Srikhettara Eras.

            Later, it is called " Tihakumba" which means the pagoda village which lies at the top of three hills. " Tihakumba" changes into " Tigumba", then to " Tigon", then to "Digon" to "Dagon".

            It is mentioned that it has been called "Dagon" at the later times of the Phu Era and the earlier times of the Pagan Era. Dagon did not stand out in the Pagan Era. Dala City which exists across it is more distinct than it. It is seen that "Dala" is more important in the records conducted in the reign of famous King Anawrahta of 11^th Century Pagan Era.

            The year when " Dagon" become significant is beyond 15 AD. It is Taunggoo Era in Myanmar history. Famous Taunggoo King Tabinshwehti came to Dagon, and camped together with his armies in 1536. In his record, it is recorded that they camped at "Dagon", paid a visit to the Shwedagon Pagoda and performed meritorious deeds. At that time, Hantharwaddi(Bago), Dala, Hlaing, Mawbe were more developed and more populated cities than Yangon in its proximity.

            The time when it was called "Yangon" and become known is 1755. The exact date would be May 2^nd. The one who led the Kaungbaung Dynasty, and who built power in this Dynasty was King Alaungpaya or U Aung Zeya who set up a new city by clearing the old city. He built a garrision, appointed city mayor, and built moats. He gave it the name "Yangon". It was the time when foreign relations were established. Before it was known as "Dagon", Thanlyin or Syriam and Dala were the places where traders and mercenaries from Western countries like Portugal, England, Dutch and Italy came to settle. Later, the British came in masses.

            Yangon became significant before colonial times, because it was a sea port. That time it extended its area to the north The Sule Pagoda, to the south The Yangon River, to the east Theinphyu Road and to the West it reached the proximity of Bosunpat Street. The population was about 10,000. From the perspective of current situation it was as large as a township.

            After the second Anglo-Myanmar war which was the earlier times of colonialism in 1852, Yangon fell to the hand of the English, and Captain Frasar of English Engineering Corps plotted and expanded Yangon again. Later, Yangon became more developed than before. More people inhabited in Yangon which was rebuilt by Captain Frasar. It is said 40,000 people lived here. The expanded city occupied the area__ to the south Strand Road, to the north Montgomerie (Commissioner Road) (now called Bogyoke Aung San Road), to the east Judah Ezekiel Road(now called Theinbyu Road), to the West Godwin Road (now called Lanmadaw Street.) From 1890 to 1920, big buildings, sea ports, Admin and social buildings were built extensively in Yangon. For example, Jubilee Hall(1898), Secretariat (1890), Governor's House(1892), Zoological Garden(1905), Fire Department (1913), and Rangoon University (1920). These buildings had been built completely in respective years.

            After the Independence, in 1948, Yangon was still prominent as the capital. It was well-known as the most beautiful city in South East Asia from the end of WWII and around 1960. It was known for being well-plotted  and adorned with flowers and trees.

            That time Yangon was one of the top international communication countries in South East Asia. As an example, News Agencies opened bureaus here. It was found that many local newspapers with Myanmar, Chinese, Indian were published and five English papers were also published. For international airlines, famous BOAC, PAA, KLM, IA, OAL, SAS, Thai Airways, and Indonesia Airways had daily flights. Besides local banks like Union Bank and Government Economic Bank, National Bank, 17 international banks were set up. These banks were the banks where local currencies as well as foreign ones could be deposited and withdrawn.

            Yangon has famous places to visit when you are in Yangon. Every international visitor who comes here goes to visit mainly the Shwedagon Pagoda which is world-famous. It is easy to access. Whatever direction one takes whether by land, by sea or by air the first thing can be viewed is the Shwedagon Pagoda. It can be seen afar from river or from air. It lies on top of the Theinguttara Hill which is 190 feet above sea level. Because of its height of 326 feet and 516 feet above sea level, the tip of its umbrella can be seen from every part of Yangon.

            The Shwedagon Pagoda is over 2500 years old according to the historical record. Though it had the height of 27 feet at the time when it was first built in 585 B.C, now it has become 326 feet high from the platform to the diamond bud and its circumference is 1420 feet. Successive kings modified and rebuilt it again and again to obtain this great size. The more striking fact is due to the Hti or the Umbrella and god sheets putting to it. It makes it like a gold heap. The time when the Shwedagon Pagoda reached its size is in 1775 in the reign of King Shin Phyu Shin of the Kaungbaung Dynasty. Previously, the height was raised to 302 feet at about 1450 A.D when Mon Kings Banyaryan, Banyarwarru, and Banyar ruled.

            There are 64 satellite pagodas, 4 companion pagodas, 4 arches, 4 great Buddha Images and middle-sized and small-sized Buddha's images in the Shwedagon Pagoda. On the platform of it there are Bo Trees, candle receptors, planetary posts, Sphinx like creatures, celestial beings, lion statues, Brahma statues, flag masts, masonry bowl pedestals, adoration halls, and rest houses.

            There are 4 stairways to the platform, and they are decorated with wood motifs, stucco reliefs, stone sculptures, as well as Myanmar traditional art crafts. Moreover, ancient stone slabs, and inscribed bells are present. Among them, 7 feet high and 16 ton bell was donated by King Singoo in 1778, 8 1/2 feet and 40 ton bell donated by King Tharyarwaddy. There are also museums where the history of the pagoda, the records on Buddhism, and historical facts on the pagoda can be studied, and museums where donated objects by Buddhists around the world have been displayed, and the offices which undergo daily chores of the pagoda and worshipping houses to be studied and to do meritorious deeds.

            In the 4 stairways to the platform, souvenirs shops, shops selling religious objects, religious books, and Buddha's images can be seen a lot. And they are also crowed with shops which sell flowers, candles, incense sticks and offertories for donating to the pagoda. If you do not want to climb the stairs, the four stairways are provided with escalators and lifts.

            The Shwedagon Pagoda lies at a site where it is easy to access. One of the other famous and easy-to-access places is the Sule Pagoda which is situated down-town at the crossing of Sule Pagoda Road and Maha Bandoola Road. It has the height of 158 feet and the Botataung Pagoda which has the height of over 131 feet for religious tour. Koe Htut Gyi Pagoda on Bar Ga Yar of San Chaung Township, Chaut Htut Gyi Pagoda and Ngar Htut Gyi Pagoda on Shwe Gon Dine Road in Bahan Township are also the places to visit. Near their neighbourhood exist many Buddhist monasteries.

            For the religious purpose, there are The Ka Bar Aye Pagoda and The Ma Har Par Tha Na Cave on Ka Bar Aye Road in Mayangone Township which are also to be explored.

            In Yangon, there are old buildings built in colonial times to be explored.

            On Strand Road, at the corner of Bo Aung Gaw Street lies Yangon Central Post Office, at the corner of Seikkanthar Street is the Strand Hotel, currently Myanmar Airways Office which was changed from Bombay Burma Building. From the corner of Strand Road to Pansodan Street Myanmar the Seaport Authority House, and the Inland Transportation Office(former The National Bank and The Grindlays Bank)  are colonial buildings.

            On Pansodan Street between Merchant Road and Maharbandoola Road exists The Supreme Court (formerly High Court), at the corner of Pansodan Street and Maharbandoola Road stands the Telegraph Office. Across it lies Kyaw Mart (former Titu Mir Department Store.) On Strand Road, between Pansodan Street and Sule Pagoda Road lies Custom House and the Chief Police Office (now The Court.)

            On Merchant Road at the corner of Sule Pagoda Road, Union Bank; on Maharbandoola Road The City Hall; at the corner of Maharbandoola Park Street, Emmanuel Church, Rowe & Co (former Census Dept:); between Bo Aung kyaw Street and Thein Phyu Road Secretariat Complex built in 1890.

            The Government Press (later the Press Corp:) at the corner of Thein Phyu Road on Anawrahta Road; The General Hospital between Lanmadaw and Payar Roads on Bogyoke Aung San Road; Holy Trinity Church on Payar Road and Bogyoke Aung San Road; Bogyoke Market (Scott Market) at the corner of Shwe Bon Thar Road; The Railway Office at the corner of Sule Pagoda Road; Saint Mary Cathedral between Bo Aung Kyaw and Thein Phyu Roads (built in 1911, celebrate centennial jubilee) are colonial buildings.

            Fire Department (1913) stands between Maharbandoola and Anawrahta Roads and  on Sule Pagoda Road; The Yangon Zoological Garden is on Alan Pya Pagoda Road (1905).

            Yangon University Compound in Kamaryut Township was built on 1920 in Yangon.

            The study can be made on stone slabs, Phyu records, ethnic cultures, royal regalia, Myanmar rural utensils, Myanmar art works of ancient times at National Museum which is on Pyay Road.

            There is a cruise along the Yangon River to view the scene. Two War Cemeteries, one of which lies in Htaunt Kyant Township and one is in Hantharwaddy Circus.

             The tourist attractive souvenirs shops are in Bogyoke Aung San Market in which Silver ware, ethnic costumes, other arts and sculptures, lacquer wares and finer art works are available. As for the paintings, finer paintings are available at the galleries on Shwe Taung Kyar Road and Than Lwin Road. Those galleries  are high ranking.

Sule Pagoda Road in Retrospect

Sule Pagoda Road in Retrospect

Walking along famous Sule Pagoda road, he is thinking about the past things in this road. It is also renowned for having a series of cinema halls in it. It used to have good cinemas like Pa Pa Win, Gone, with the left of the road, Ye Yint, Nay Pyi Daw and Shae Saung on its right.

Sule Shangrila Hotel, formerly it was called Traders Hotel, used to be the place of Pa Pa Win cinema hall where people could watch foreign movies. Normally, it was usually crowded with movie lovers.

Those days it was not easy to see a new foreign movie. People had to queue up long to get a movie ticket. There were various ticket fees starting from 25 pyas, 50 pyas, 75 pyas, 1 and half kyats, 4 kyats, and 5 kyats.

That time, a price for a cup of tea was 1 kyat. Biriyani(colour Indian rice) was available for 5 kyats. There was also a black market for selling tickets. Even policemen had to take care of some naughty people who tried to climb over the entry fence. If someone broke the law, they tried to slap them with belts they wore.

Gone cinema hall was famous for its show of Japanese movies. The best thing they got was  good air-conditioners which could give enough cold for movie goers. Its seat plan was also good for them.

Ye Yint cinema hall was famous for showing Indian movies. Even when he was young, he had seen Amitabh Bachchan movies. He liked Indian films because it took almost three hours to finish it.

After 1988, then Traders Hotel replaced Pa Pa Win cinema hall and Sakura Tower replaced Ye Yint cinema hall. He still remembered how he watched Superman movie with his uncle when they had managed one ticket for them. He had to share with his uncle seat. That was a memorable event for him, because he still remembered it.

Apart from cinema halls, along the road, there were good food stalls after the movie. Let's say "Let Yway Zin" teashop was waiting for hungry bellies to taste its foods. The shop was famous for its noodle and coffee. The aroma of coffee wafted through the air so that passers-by had to look back at it. They could not resist its temptation so that they had to buy a packet for their home.

People liked to walk along the road when they returned from work. There were also bus stops there, where people could take buses for home. That time, old buses still ran for people. Sometimes, people were crowding at the bus stop shelters.

These things and scenes are locked in this famous road called Sule Pagoda Road. Even British poet C.J Ricard tried to capture the memorable moment he had encountered in a poem titled "To An Indian Bull in Sule Pagoda Road" to the amusement of readers.

Ipso facto, they become a minted page in Yangon city's history to relate to the next generation.■ Texts and photos by San Lin Tun

Fig.(1) Sule Pagoda Road With the Background of Shangrila Hotel

Fig.(2) Sule Pagoda Road with the Front View of Shangrila Hotel

Welcome, Thingyan!

Welcome, Thingyan!

Thingyan known as water festival is coming nearer. Just a month or so. Everyone is exciting to celebrate this enjoyable time of the year. Every Myanmar loves this special occasion because it has its own distinct features.

According to tradition, it is the time of welcoming a new year in terms of Myanmar way. Its seasonal flower is Padauk which is loved and adored by every woman, young and old alike. Many want to offer these flowers to Lord Buddha. But, to adorn the flower on their heads is a must for Myanmar woman folk. Its smell is not too strong or not too sweet. Just to refresh the worrisome mind of inhalers of Padauk flowers.

This time almost every ward is blessed with these flowers when Thingyan welcoming rain falls gently onto the Padauk trees. Then, on the next day, the trees will bloom exuberantly. Every ward is flagrant with its sweet smell and looks splendid with the attracting yellow color of it.

Young children are really preparing to celebrate Thingyan in their fanciful ways. They like to stay out all day long in the streets or in the sun, even skipping their favourite meals. Parents have to take care of them when their offsprings are enjoying the merriest time of the year because the kids want to be mischievous and naughty.

They like to throw water to anyone who happens to pass in their ways. But, there is a taboo not to throw water onto any pregnant woman, any person who observes eight or ten precepts  or any postman.

Some use yay pywits (water sprayer guns) or some use plastic water bowl. Most of them use used and battered condensed milk can. During the time, they sing their favourite song, "Throwing water with dilapidated can makes us unflinching, unflinching." In this way, they try to ridicule the merry making water throwers, and participants.

The more they sing the cheerful verse, the harder they become. It is the way how children are celebrating Thingyan. But, youths, adolescents, and adults use ribaldry especially on reveller cars. Some of them express a kind of courtship.

For  teenagers, they bend on showing off. They like to wear fancy and trendy clothes for this occasion. Some youths want to dye their hair in different colors whatever they like to do it. Dying hair has became popular among young people these days. Two or three decades ago, young people of those times do not know much about dying hair.

In terms of music, two or three decades ago, they used Heavy Metal music or Rock-n-Roll which could be heard in every fun-making pandal which used powerful loud speakers to the enjoyment of the revellers.

Nowadays, they prefer playing hip-hop music rather than rock or something like that. Tastes are ephemeral. Youths try to shape their own age in this way.

Another prevalent trend which can be seen in this age is people like to set up high pandals which have to be looked up. They try to put colorful vinyl sheets in front of the pandals to attract revellers. In this way, some of Myanmar traditions have been lost in the name of modernity.

But, for some people, they do not forget to perform meritorious deeds in this occasion. In some other wards, they build temporary pandals to prepare for traditional foods like Mote Lone Yay Paw which can be translated literally as Float Ball which is embedded with juggery.

It is mouth watering to taste this famous food. Everyone wants to taste it whenever they have a chance to do it.

Figure: water spray gun

Actually, they prepare it for donating. They do not discriminate, anyone rich or poor can enjoy it when he/ she happens to pass before the pandal. This is another kind of custom seen in Thingyan.

Next thing one can see in Thingyan is decorated cars which are occupied by a group of dancers, and a crowd of jesters who sing "Than Gyut" which is a kind of drills in which a leader leads uttering sardonic verses followed by his peers, and it can criticise properly the current political, social, and economical situations to the enjoyment of audience.

In this way, Thingyan still survive in the hearts of Myanmar people. Therefore, they want to celebrate it again and again when the time for it is coming in. It can be truly said that Thingyan and Myanmar people are inseparable.■

San Lin Tun

Mandalay

Mandalay

It is a distinct city which was ruled and reigned by the last Myanmar king Thibaw.

Mentioning Mandalay means that looking back into the golden days of the past. Mandalay can be said truly that it is the city which has distributed and preserved Buddhism and the memorable ancient culture. Moreover, it is the prominent and historic city in the central Myanmar. One can know the hospitality of Mandalayans who preserve Myanmar culture when one meets them. The Mandalay city called metaphorically as “ Shwe Mandalay” was built by King Mindon in Kaw Zar era 1221, the 6th waning day of Kasone. It has now been over 150 years old. When talking about Mandalay, the moat and the palace cannot be left out. On seeing them instantly, what will be in the mind of a viewer?

The moat and the big brick wall surrounding the golden palace is like a painting which speaks a lot. They have been through the burden of time together. Though they are over a hundred years old, they have still been the blood and flesh of Mandalay.

At the head of Mandalay, there is a natural tower which stands steadfastly. It is the famous Mandalay hill. The feeling obtained from viewing the Mandalay hill can be understood by everyone who has visited it. According to the historical record, the 500 foot Mandalay hill is called “Bee-Lu-Ma Mountain”. When mentioning Mandalay hill, the hermit U Khan Ti has to be spoken of. There are adoration halls which are reinforced with iron and concrete and have corrugated sheets. They can be seen as his faith, perseverance, and discrete. He renovated Ku-Tho-Daw at the foot of the hill, Sandar-Mu-Ni, Kyauk-Taw-Gyi, Thu-Dhammar Zayat (Rest House), Yan-Kin Hill, Pha-Yar-Gyi (Big Pagoda), Ar-Nan-Dar Adoration Hall, brick stairway, and images. Like Mandalay and moat are inseparable, Hermit U Khan Ti and Mandalay are the same. Moreover, people will not object that he is the person who brought credit to Mandalay.

Mandalay foods are also different from other ones. Yangonites like “Mohingar” for breakfast and Mandalayans adore “ Mont Tee” ( Rice Noodles). People who enjoy “ Mont Tee” will have it from roadside shops, tea shops to the shops where “ Mont Tee” is only sold. For Mandalayans who see Mandalay damsels with patches of “ Thanatkhar” on cheeks enjoy the breakfast “Mont Tee” is not strange for them, but it will become queer for tourists who come to visit Mandalay. The preparation and arrangement of “Mont Tee” at “ Mont Tee” shop seem interesting for gastronomes. The size of “ Mont Tee” noodle ranges from “ big”, “medium” and “ small”. When reaching Mandalay, make sure to enjoy “ Mont Tee”.

There are many places and things to study, visit, take notice of and be astounded. There is the most wonderful place in Mandalay among many places. It is Ku-Tho-Daw pagoda called “ Law-Ka-Mar-Ra-Zein” pagoda. Mandalay is the Buddhism-centered city so that the three Sasana called “ Pariyatti”, “Patipatti”, and “ Pativeda” to be blooming for the perpetuation of Buddhism. It is one of the adorable customs of Mandalay which becomes one of the cherished customs. King Mindon inscribed the stone to preserve the Tripitaka of the Buddha.

In the precinct of Ku-Tho-Taw pagoda, the marble slabs obtained from “Marble Mountain” are used to inscribe the five treatises of Vinaya which take 111 slabs, the seven treatises of Abhidhamma which take 208 slabs, the five Nikayas of Sutta Pali which take 401 slabs. All together 729 slabs are used. Each slab is built inside the brick pyatthat, and pay homage to it.

The festivals of Mandalay are held in Tha-Din-Gyut (Light festival) and Tha-Zaung-Mone. When the weather is free from rain and wind, people can go happily with families. The traditional snacks at food stalls can attract pwe-goers. Beside the festivals of famous pagodas, there are local pagoda festivals in each quarter. The distinct feature of a local pagoda festival is the people of the quarter can hire Zet, A-Nyeint (Solo Dance), Saing ( Drum Ensemble) which are loved by people, and they are watched and enjoyed felicitously. A-Nyeint is a symbol which cannot be separated from Mandalay.

 “Shin-Byu or Novitiation Ceremony”

Myanmar Buddhists try to initiate someone to become a novice when they have a son in the family. Most of Myanmar boys don a robe for the religious donation of parents. They strive to earn money for Shin-Byu ceremony for their son. The style of going around Shin-Byu is different from region to region. When going around, some go with cars, some with horses, some with elephants, some with bullock carts, some carry novices-to-be on shoulders. Beside those who hold the umbrellas for novices-to-be, a group of beautiful damsels holding betal containers, the host parents, who sling eight requisites, there are a band of “Do”,and music troupe. Moreover, there are relatives who carry or hold pillows, mats, and blankets for them. These are the inevitable sight in Shin-Byu ceremony. The donors donate food as much as they can afford; likewise, the guests devour to their satisfaction. It is one of the cherished customs of Shwe Myanmar.

Stone Carving Industry

“Pan-Ta-Mo” called “Stone carving art” is an art which appeared in Beik-Tha-Noe era. Pan or Panne (an art which makes beauty) is a Myanmar word and Ta-Mo is a Mon word. When both words combine, it becomes “Pan-Ta-Mo” which means an art which makes stone beautiful by carving in researchers’ opinions. Some researchers say Pan-Ta-Mo is a Mon word. Anyway, in Myanmar which is a Buddhist country there are generations of stone carvers in ages. Mandalay which is a religious area of Myanmar, there are stone carvers. They carve sculptures of marble, quartz, laterite and granite. When reaching “Mahar-Tha-Kya-Mar-Ra-Zein”, one can study the arts of ancient stone carvers. Pan-Ta-Mo art carves many Buddha images mostly; later, they can carve many sculptures according to ages. It is sure to maintain the stone carving industry in Mandalay which is a religious area. 

Gold Foil Making Industry

As for a Buddhist country, Myanmar has the custom of gilding pagodas, stupas and images. Therefore, gold foil making is one of the industries practiced since ancient times. In the time of King Mindon, the gold foil making industry became prominent. To be able to make gold foil industry, the gold slabs from the royal depository were taken out and they were made into foils. Later, common people were allotted to make it and it became a ward called “Hay-Mar-Myar-Par ward”.

The persons who are engaged in the gold foil making industry are called “Tan-Zar” in ancient times. It is sure that he cannot run very well even though he has got enough money. Only when does he know about gold, and then, he runs it well.

While visiting a new place, one can buy a present for one’s friend is a kind of taste.  In Mandalay, one should go to “Htoe-Mont” or “Glutinous rice pudding” district for presents for returning home. In “Htoe-Mont” district, the stalls give a piece of it to taste and it is one of the significant customs of Mandalay’s “Htoe-Mont” district.

At sunset of Mandalay, one can take a stroll along U Pein Bridge which has built with wood in Taung-Ta-Man Lake, taking fresh air. One can enjoy fried fish caught from the lake together with green tea, and enjoy the beauty of the sunset. With revealing one’s head while catching fish is quite interesting. At almost sunset, the beauty of U Pein’s Bridge is a quite different one. For a nostalgic person, Mandalay is full of nostalgic memories.

Mandalay seems to be proud of being the last royal city of Myanmar Kings. Mandalay which is striving with patriotic spirit exists itself by its own style.

Translated by San Lin Tun