Mandalay

Mandalay

It is a distinct city which was ruled and reined by the last Myanmar king Thibaw.

Mentioning Mandalay means that looking back into the golden days of the past. Mandalay can be said truly that it is the city which has distributed and preserved Buddhism and the memorable ancient culture. Moreover, it is the prominent and historic city in the central Myanmar. One can know the hospitality of Mandalayans who preserve Myanmar culture when one meets them. The Mandalay city called metaphorically as “Shwe Mandalay” was built by King Mindon in Kaw Zar era 1221, the 6th waning day of Kasone. It has now been over 150 years old. When talking about Mandalay, the moat and the palace cannot be left out. On seeing them instantly, what will be in the mind of a viewer?

The moat and the big brick wall surrounding the golden palace is like a painting which speaks a lot. They have been through the burden of time together. Though they are over a hundred years old, they have still been the blood and flesh of Mandalay.

At the head of Mandalay, there is a natural tower which stands steadfastly. It is the famous Mandalay hill. The feeling obtained from viewing the Mandalay hill can be understood by everyone who has visited it. According to the historical record, the 500 foot Mandalay hill is called “Bee-Lu-Ma Mountain”. When mentioning Mandalay hill, the hermit U Khan Ti has to be spoken of. There are adoration halls which are reinforced with iron and concrete and have corrugated sheets. They can be seen as his faith, perseverance, and discrete. He renovated Ku-Tho-Daw at the foot of the hill, Sandar-Mu-Ni, Kyauk-Taw-Gyi, Thu-Dhammar Zayat (Rest House), Yan-Kin Hill, Pha-Yar-Gyi (Big Pagoda), Ar-Nan-Dar Adoration Hall, brick stairway, and images. Like Mandalay and moat are inseparable, Hermit U Khan Ti and Mandalay are the same. Moreover, people will not object that he is the person who brought credit to Mandalay.

Mandalay foods are also different from other ones. Yangonites like “Mohingar” for breakfast and Mandalayans adore “Mont Tee” (Rice Noodles). People who enjoy “Mont Tee” will have it from roadside shops, tea shops to the shops where “Mont Tee” is only sold. For Mandalayans who see Mandalay damsels with patches of “Thanatkhar” on cheeks enjoy the breakfast “Mont Tee” is not strange for them, but it will become queer for tourists who come to visit Mandalay. The preparation and arrangement of “Mont Tee” at “Mont Tee” shop seem interesting for gastronomes. The size of “Mont Tee” noodle ranges from “ big”, “medium” and “ small”. When reaching Mandalay, make sure to enjoy “Mont Tee”.

There are many places and things to study, visit, take notice of and be astounded. There is the most wonderful place in Mandalay among many places. It is Ku-Tho-Daw pagoda called       “Law-Ka-Mar-Ra-Zein” pagoda. Mandalay is the Buddhism-centered city so that the three Sasana called “Pariyatti”, “Patipatti”, and “Pativeda” to be blooming for the perpetuation of Buddhism. It is one of the adorable customs of Mandalay which becomes one of the cherished customs. King Mindon inscribed the stone to preserve the Tripitaka of the Buddha.

In the precinct of Ku-Tho-Taw pagoda, the marble slabs obtained from “Marble Mountain” are used to inscribe the five treatises of Vinaya which take 111 slabs, the seven treatises of Abhidhamma which take 208 slabs, the five Nikayas of Sutta Pali which take 401 slabs. All together 729 slabs are used. Each slab is built inside the brick pyatthat, and pay homage to it.

The festivals of Mandalay are held in Tha-Din-Gyut (Light festival) and Tha-Zaung-Mone. When the weather is free from rain and wind, people can go happily with families. The traditional snacks at food stalls can attract pwe-goers. Beside the festivals of famous pagodas, there are local pagoda festivals in each quarter. The distinct feature of a local pagoda festival is the people of the quarter can hire Zet, A-Nyeint (Solo Dance), Saing (Drum Ensemble) which are loved by people, and they are watched and enjoyed felicitously. A-Nyeint is a symbol which cannot be separated from Mandalay.

 “Shin-Byu or Novitiation Ceremony”

Myanmar Buddhists try to initiate someone to become a novice when they have a son in the family. Most of Myanmar boys don a robe for the religious donation of parents. They strive to earn money for Shin-Byu ceremony for their son. The style of going around Shin-Byu is different from region to region. When going around, some go with cars, some with horses, some with elephants, some with bullock carts, some carry novices-to-be on shoulders. Beside those who hold the umbrellas for novices-to-be, a group of beautiful damsels holding betal containers, the host parents, who sling eight requisites, there are a band of “Do”,and music troupe. Moreover, there are relatives who carry or hold pillows, mats, and blankets for them. These are the inevitable sight in Shin-Byu ceremony. The donors donate food as much as they can afford; likewise, the guests devour to their satisfaction. It is one of the cherished customs of Shwe Myanmar.

Stone Carving Industry

“Pan-Ta-Mo” called “Stone carving art” is an art which appeared in Beik-Tha-Noe era. Pan or Panne (an art which makes beauty) is a Myanmar word and Ta-Mo is a Mon word. When both words combine, it becomes “Pan-Ta-Mo” which means an art which makes stone beautiful by carving in researchers’ opinions. Some researchers say Pan-Ta-Mo is a Mon word. Anyway, in Myanmar which is a Buddhist country there are generations of stone carvers in ages. Mandalay which is a religious area of Myanmar, there are stone carvers. They carve sculptures of marble, quartz, laterite and granite. When reaching “Mahar-Tha-Kya-Mar-Ra-Zein”, one can study the arts of ancient stone carvers. Pan-Ta-Mo art carves many Buddha images mostly; later, they can carve many sculptures according to ages. It is sure to maintain the stone carving industry in Mandalay which is a religious area.

Gold Foil Making Industry

As for a Buddhist country, Myanmar has the custom of gilding pagodas, stupas and images. Therefore, gold foil making is one of the industries practiced since ancient times. In the time of King Mindon, the gold foil making industry became prominent. To be able to make gold foil industry, the gold slabs from the royal depository were taken out and they were made into foils. Later, common people were allotted to make it and it became a ward called “Hay-Mar-Myar-Par ward”.

The persons who are engaged in the gold foil making industry are called “Tan-Zar” in ancient times. It is sure that he cannot run very well even though he has got enough money. Only when does he know about gold, and then, he runs it well.

While visiting a new place, one can buy a present for one’s friend is a kind of taste.  In Mandalay, one should go to “Htoe-Mont” or “Glutinous rice pudding” district for presents for returning home. In “Htoe-Mont” district, the stalls give a piece of it to taste and it is one of the significant customs of Mandalay’s “Htoe-Mont” district.

At sunset of Mandalay, one can take a stroll along U Pein Bridge which has built with wood in Taung-Ta-Man Lake, taking fresh air. One can enjoy fried fish caught from the lake together with green tea, and enjoy the beauty of the sunset. With revealing one’s head while catching fish is quite interesting. At almost sunset, the beauty of U Pein’s Bridge is a quite different one. For a nostalgic person, Mandalay is full of nostalgic memories.

Mandalay seems to be proud of being the last royal city of Myanmar Kings. Mandalay which is striving with patriotic spirit exists itself by its own style.

Translated by San Lin Tun

Myanmar Saing Waing(Drum Ensemble)

Myanmar Saing Waing (Drum Ensemble)

            Myanmar Saing or Drum Ensemble is very much popular among people.  They want to see it often at pagoda festivals and at special occasions like donation ceremony or others.

            That time people usually hire a good saing waing to entertain people or guests after a day's work of donation or at the inception of novitiation or ordination ceremonies. But, it is not compulsory to do it, but some affordable persons or donors prefer to hold it.

            As soon as the saing master displays his virtuosity, people gather around his saing waing, and listen raptly to his improvisation.

            People feel awestruck by his dexterity in handling 21 drums which are arranged in circle.

            Looking back into the history, people can learn that Myanmar Kings showed interest in this music. It can be seen very clearly in the Glass Palace Chronicles in this way:

            "In the year of 906, King Shwe Hti reached the town called Salin when he marched with his troops by land and by water, and camped at the jetty of it. Then, he heard the music issuing from the platform of the Shwe Tan Zar pagoda. His commanders told him that it was the songs of Pat Saing which was also the name of Saing Waing. Accordingly, he ordered them that the lives of the saing players spared."¹

            As well, it cannot seperate Myanmar people from Myanmar saing waing because it stays with them for a long time in terms of seriousness and happiness.

            It is needed to mention one of the famous saing master Sein Beda who was well-known for his own techniques of playing drums. His father was also a famous Myanmar saing master who served under Myanmar king.

            There were some occasions in which Sein Beda performed his saing skills to the delight of King Thibaw, the last king of Koungbaung Dynasty. The first one was that when the king ascended a new residence at Ratanagiri and the other was that at the ear-boring ceremony of the royal princess.

            Because of his excellent calibre, the king Thibaw bestowed him the title of "Ne Myo Bala Kyaw Thu" and the right of display four gold-leafed staffs of honour on his drum circle."

            Later in one occasion, the saing attendant-cum-singer summoned his master to play the saing in this way:

            "Titled Ne-Myo-Bala-Kyaw-Thu by royal pleasure, thy musical genius, without exaggeration, is saluted by musicians throughout the land. Oh brother, music university personified, I, Sein Nyo Seint propose that you tap your drums with the dark sandal tips of your fingers." ²

            Such words are really elated and exhilarating when someone hears it. At the time, a music lover understands and feels excited that it is the time for saing master to show his virtuosity.

            Later, the small drums in the circle will tell how skillful the master is. At every touch, it sounds like the most brilliant and clearest piece of tune jumping out of it to the enjoyment of the audience.     

            Some songs tried to jerk the people's delight. It goes this way:

            "Behold, the person of Sein Beda, those who say he is dark skinned have their tongues in their cheeks. When he was born, the midwife got only a quarter kyat for her pains. In retaliation she immersed the infant in soot. Behold the result!"³

            Those words bring the hall down. But, the master never reduces his gusto, with unflinch composure he played continuously.

            His Mingala Byaw Nyunt is still popular for alms-giving occasions. In this time, he sang it himself. The texts of the Byaw really encroaching. It runs thus:

            Pandal in mid-town, communal alms-giving,

            Old, old monastery with balustrade in ruins;

            Since our novice lives there, abundant rains!

            As I walk east and gaze west over my shoulder,

            I see the Pagoda with its gold banner and streamers;

            That's where my darling is, the reverend novice.

            How lovely is the entrance leading to it_

            The Gold Enlightenment Monastery!⁴

            It needs to mention about tuning of the drums, i.e, pat-sa-poh. The drum master has to be really adept at doing it while the session of humour and slapstick were inserted by rear members of the saing. During the time, the saing master has to finish his tuning.

            In this practise, Sein Beda was renowned for his judgement of the amount of pat-sa which is boiled rice and wood-ash kneaded with water into a dough.

            Later, his pupils adopted the initial word "Sein" before their name, like Sein Hnget Yo, Kyaukpadaung Sein Maung Tint, Sein Mg Ko, Sein Hla Maung, Sein Kyaw Tint, etc.

            Anyway, sometimes "saing" is played by itself, but sometimes together with zat, or A-nyeint. No matter what it takes, saing shows its enchantment to the delight of people.

            As long as Myanmar lasts, Saing will survive. It is true.

            Nowadays we still find the emergence of Saing master like Myanmar Pyi Kaung Sein who have played the album named "The Proclamation And Myanmar "Saing" ". In that album, he has rearranged the famous songs like Asia Great Man Bo Aung San, The Public Father, Sheer Courage, etc. He has made rearrangements for those songs to be fit to play for Saing. One can say this is his new creation, and he has done very well to do that.

            Anyway, Myanmar Saing gives strength and pleasure to Myanmar people whose hearts can discern the subtle and profound kind of art, and they feel satisfied with their life with it.■

References

1. Tekkatho Maung Thu Hlaing, Myanmar Traditional Orchestra Instruments, p 12

2.  K, Burmese Culture, p 61

3. Ibid

4. Ibid, p 65

(Note: It is a reprint from "An iSmart Bus Ride and Other Essays."

Creative Flow Writing Workshop

                                                       Creative Flow Writing Workshop

The post on Facebook about Creative Flow Writing Workshop jolted me to participate in it because the title itself bore quite an interesting topic on which I thought that it would be very beneficial to freelance writers or literary enthusiasts. The event was on 30^th of April.

For them, it was a good chance to meet a talented writer from South Africa. This workshop was done at Parami Institute in collaboration with Gothe Institut, Sylt Foundation, and Short Story Day Africa.

On reading about her short bio created and posted by Parami Institute of Liberal Arts and Sciences, I figured out that her first novel Gem Squash Tokoloshe(2005) was shortlisted for the prestigious literary prize called Whitbread First Novel Award, and The John Llewellyn Rhys Prize, and long-listed for the IMPACE Award. And then, the published novel called Sister-Sister (2003) was shortlisted for the University of Johannesburg Prize and The Herman Charles Bosman Prize, and was long-listed for the Sunday Times Fiction Award. She has been conducted this workshop called “Short Story Day Africa.”

On the workshop day, I went to Parami Institute of Liberal Arts and Sciences; I figured out that her first novel is Gem Daing Flyover.

Rachel Zadok was waiting for the participants who would join the workshop. Happily, I met Moritz from Gothe Institut, because he would attend the workshop, too. I met him on the occasion when the book named “PIX” for the theme “Inclusion” was launched in Myan/Art on Bogalayzay Street last month. He is a nice fellow, depicting much interest in current art and literature of Myanmar.

Rachel Zadok seemed really happy to conduct the workshop with the support of Gothe Institut when she saw nearly twenty participants were already seated in their respective tables. They seemed really eager to take part in it.

Rachel seems in her mid forties, but I am not sure because this is my guess. She has some tattoos on her arms. She is a bit like bohemian in style, but she knows her art and craft well because when she starts to distribute the handouts to all the participants, explaining what she wants to do to them.

The first handout she gave us showed that the introduction to Free Writing. She explained us about how writing should be, and the creator self is better than the editor self. She really encouraged us to free writing and later she gave us another handout in which the extracts from “My Mane” from The House on Mango Street by Sandra Cisneros.

We had to write about our name: what the meaning of it in terms of each letter, its related belief, history as a whole, etc. It was our first lesson of writing. She gave us five minutes to write about it.

When I looked at the class, all of the participants were keen to compose about their names. After five minutes, each participant had to read the writing from their paper, sharing it with their co-participants.

The next exercise was more challenging, because when she gave us the third handout, it contained lots of unknown words to us. But, she explained us that she wanted us to use them in our writings although we did not have any clues about the meaning of them. She told us that we could check them on later in the dictionary if we liked to do it.

She enumerated us that in writing a piece of literary work, sounds of the words we use could give something interesting and exciting to the ears of the readers who tend to like the literary piece by the sounds of the words the writer uses. It is quite an interesting exercise because we could use the unknown words. I thought that she was so clever to ask us to do this daunting task.

The next exercise she gave us was that she asked us to compose a poem titled “A Magic Box” into which we could place things we liked and fancied. The questions we had to ask for writing about it that we had to know what types of material we used for it, what we would put inside it, actually the long lists of things. She gave us the lists of things we would put into that magic box. It was quite a fun to write about it. She unleashed the incredible way of taking out as much imaginary talents we got.

On handout six, she let us read “On Writing” by Stephen King who is well-known for his mystery novels. After that, she asked us to take out the photo we took for this workshop. Based on the photo, we had to write about it. We could compose where we took the photo, what the photo was about, why we took that photo etc.

It was like we were racking our brains to make a link with our past memories which would be alive again in our writing. It was a kind of doing a good exercise because we normally store our best memories in our brain.

And, we would see what things would be after composing our pasts. Some people said that to overcome the trauma was to forget the memories. But, for the authors they live on their memories. Only when did they have their memories, and they could write better. It might be wrong to some people, but I believe in it.

I normally experience writer’s block which is all the time on the writing career. It is very important to overcome with it if not frustration and fatigue would stymie the literary career. On this issue, I think, she gave us the best answer by giving us the exercise in this way. We needed to take out three or five lines from the writings we did, we had to write them deeper and deeper.

By doing this exercise, I believed that I could write more than I expected for a certain chapter because we could edit on this new piece we made later.

On the last lecture, she explained us that it took her two and half years to complete her first novel and for her second novel it took her five years. I was amazed when she told us about how long she took for writing a novel. And it was such an inspired utterance to us all.

Like the workshop title itself, we seldom stopped writing; we took a short break for coffee and refreshments. Then, we continued our workshop until it reached the final time. It began at 3 pm, and finished at 7 pm. It gave us the experience and new ways to look at creative writing. The memories will live us until they change into writings again.■

San Lin Tun

(This article has already appeared in 2017 June Issue of “Professional Today Journal”.)

Photo Credit to Parami Institute of Liberal Arts and Sciences